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Eat Your Heart Out
Bonnie Davidson | Photo: Courtesy of the Restaurants | April 29, 2014
While other cities may have great restaurants, what distinguishes NYC as the make-or-break food capital of America is the scene—no other city presents a fully revolving culinary universe quite like our town. With that in mind, we present our list of the top 25 places to dine and imbibe this summer.
Even in a magazine named Manhattan, we’d be remiss not to highlight the rapidly maturing culinary scene of the edgy eastern borough.
Cured Scottish salmon at Saul at the Brooklyn Museum
Pretty enough to pass as a multimedia collage, the cured Scottish salmon appetizer at Saul at the Brooklyn Museum (200 Eastern Parkway) is an elegant deconstruction of a classic bagel and lox. House-cured for 24 hours, the pink salmon is sliced thin and artfully arranged with cream cheese bavarois, rye croutons, dill, capers, onions and a mound of translucent salmon roe.
Pretzel pork and chive dumplings at Talde
Pork-and-chive dumplings get a ballpark pretzel twist at Talde (369 Seventh Ave.), where chef Dale Talde blanches the little wonton skin-wrapped pot stickers in a baking-soda bath, sprinkles them with rock salt before frying and serves them with spicy mustard.
Beef marrow and oxtail marmalade at Blue Ribbon Brooklyn
Offal aficionados trek to Park Slope for the beef marrow and oxtail marmalade at Blue Ribbon Brooklyn (280 Fifth Ave.). The dish flaunts hefty bones filled with gelatinous marrow, ready to be scooped out, mixed with savory marmalade and slathered on challah toast.
Chicken for two at Dover
Chefs Joseph Ogrodnek and Walker Stern of newly opened Dover (412 Court St.) in Carroll Gardens give flight to the surprisingly trendy bird du jour, roasted chicken, by preparing Green Circle chickens, an especially pampered French variety, two ways—a salad of shredded leg meat, redolent with black truffles, and juicy breasts with crisp, crackly skin in a simple jus.
Garden at The Elm
The award for most understated menu description goes to... Garden, a shareable entree at The Elm (160 N. 12th St.) in Williamsburg that is humbly defined as “fruits and vegetables of the season.” In fact, the wildly creative chef/owner Paul Liebrandt meticulously prepares and composes up to 50 individual types of greens, tubers, vegetables, buds, pods, herbs and fruits. His colorful, market-fresh, meatless cornucopia arrives at the table in a Le Creuset pot.