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Flashback: Haute Hippie Plates

Restaurants Are Reliving the Summer of Love with These Dishes

Ingredients that you thought died with the Summer of Love are alive and well on the most boundary-pushing menus in town. If you feel the need to satisfy your inner hippie, here are a few suggestions:

SproutsCommonwealth’s (2224 Mission St., at 18th St., 415-355-1500) Jason Fox sprouts and puffs quinoa for his sea urchin with corn to create texture on the plate. Others to try: sprouted French lentils with AQ’s (1085 Mission St., near 7th St., 415-341-9000) aged squab, or pea sprouts with Brasserie S&P’s (222 Sansome Street, near Pine St., 415-986-2020) grilled Duroc pork loin chop.

Grains: At Outerlands, (4001 Judah St., at 45th Ave., 415-661-6140) Brett Cooper uses oats to play into the natural sweetness of glazed young carrots. Bar Tartine co-chef Cortney Burns likes using buckwheat in the graham cracker crust of cheesecake.

Tofu: Chef Jeff Banker makes silken tofu to pair with Maine lobster at Baker & Banker (1701 Octavia St., at Bush St., 415-351-2500). The only yuba sausage around is a special at the Plant, where a bean curd casing wraps black rice and beets.

Seeds: Melissa Perello adds nigella seeds to lavash for charred spring-onion dip at Frances (3870 17th St., at Pond St., 415-621-3870). But the creativity prize goes to SPQRs (1911 Fillmore St., at Wilmot St., 415-771-7779) Matthew Accarrino, who makes pasta with flax seeds and coats it in brilliant squash blossom pesto.

 

Originally published in the August 2013 issue of San Francisco

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