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Hello Deli

 At long last, San Francisco gets a bagel worth waking up for. 

Breakfast in the Financial District can be a grim affair, with few options other than lousy plastic-wrapped muffins—or those blueberry-studded rolls with a hole, misguidedly billed as bagels. But now, thanks to the arrival of Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Tuesday mornings bring a fresh incentive to head downtown: authentic Montreal-style bagels (sweeter and smaller than New York’s), from Oakland’s Beauty’s Bagel Shop, covered with a proper schmear of cream cheese and topped with silky smoked salmon, briny capers, and silvers of red onion, and tomatoes for as long as they’re in season. Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman ran Wise Sons Deli as a pop-up restaurant for almost a year before joining the Tuesday lineup in front of the Ferry Building. And sometime in 2012, fingers crossed, they’ll be moving their pastrami on rye, assorted pickles, chocolate babka, and other old-world standards into a permanent space. In the meantime, their bagel and lox is a true East Coast deli classic—something that’s as rare in San Francisco as a warm day in June. Ferry Building Marketplace (Embarcadero at Market St.) S.F., wisesonsdeli.com