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Picán

Oakland
This vast room, manned by hosts who will outdress you even if you dress up, may be as glamorous as Oakland gets. Wooden shutters and sleek wicker chairs
set the mood for what’s cooking: Southern food of the swanky variety. Which isn’t to say it’s precious—some of the entrées, like a double-thick pork chop, irresistibly crusted in a sweet and spicy glaze, are bust-your-belly big. The flavors are big, too. Limey catfish ceviche, crunchy with celery, is eaten off barbecue potato chips. A pretty panzanella of tomato, avocado, and peach is topped with...bacon, of course. And the fried chicken, crisp and drippingly juicy, comes with a wee skillet with mac and cheese rich enough to be a meal on its own. The delicious cocktails are heavy on the brown stuff. Bourbon lovers, rejoice.

2295 Broadway (at 23rd St.)
510-834-1000
$$$ RVW ★★½

 

Our review policy: To ensure that we get a typical consumer’s experience in a restaurant, our writers dine anonymously; all expenses are paid by the magazine. Reviews are pulled from our listings two years after the review date or any time personnel changes at a restaurant render a review invalid. Our admittedly imperfect star ratings are based on food quality, variety, service, ambience, and value.
Staff reviewers and contributors to our restaurant guide include John Birdsall, Susan Bryan, Stett Holbrook, Rachel Levin, Jan Newberry, Josh Sens, and Lisa Trottier.

Prices:
Average price of an entrée:
$ = $10 or less
$$ = $11–17
$$$ = $18–24
$$$$ = $25 or more

Symbols:
D = Dinner only
R = Reservation required/recommended
C = Cash only
V = Valet parking
W = Wheelchair accessible

Ratings:
★★★★ = superlative
★★★ = excellent
★★ = very good
★ = good
✩ = below average