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A few of Eunice’s menu stars, including the chilled Gulf tuna with honey crisp apple, tomato, cilantro and miso

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Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler

By Mimi Faucett Trahan

Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

01.11.19

Eunice boasts major Louisiana flavor right here in Houston.

“If we were going to get anything right, we knew it had to be the gumbo,” says Daniel Blue, chef de cuisine of Eunice, the buzzy new Cajun-Creole brasserie in Upper Kirby. The restaurant is named for a small Cajun town in Louisiana, the hometown of head chef Drake Leonards. If you’ve ever been to Eunice, La., the swanky Gin Braverman-designed interiors of Drake’s venture might feel mismatched to its muse, but when you taste the Tabasco-honey-soaked fried quail; fried boudin balls (cooked Billy’s style, referencing a famed boudin and cracklins shop off I-10 in Scott, La.); or the must-have shrimp and green chile grits with green onion sausage gravy, you’ll know it’s the real deal. Drake’s sophisticated twists on tried-and-true Southern dishes, plus a boozy cocktail list with plenty of Louisiana classics (sidecar, anyone?), keep tables booked days in advance—Kate Upton and Jason Verlander are among fans. Also, spoiler alert: The gumbo’s just right with flavorful chunks of chicken, andouille and tasso—especially after dumping in a scoop of horseradishy potato salad, per the chef’s suggestion—“It’s how they do it in Eunice.” 3737 Buffalo Speedway, 832.491.1717