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Tomaso’s When in Rome

Clockwise from left: Osso bucco; vegetarian eggplant torte; cacio e pepe; pappardelle with mushrooms in a truffle sauce.

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Rome on the Range

By Riki Altman-Yee

Photo by Debby Wolvos

09.21.17

Tomaso Maggiore’s newest concept promises a delicately modern spin on traditional Italian cuisine.

CHEF TOMASO MAGGIORE has populated the Valley with more than 35 local concepts since 1977, but his latest fine dining restaurant in North Scottsdale, Tomaso’s When in Rome, might just be his best. Unafraid to alter Roman staples (read: pesto with pistachios and deconstructed osso bucco), Maggiore also tackles the namesake city’s four indigenous dishes, serving creamy carbonara, savory pasta alla gricia, bucatini amatriciana enriched with rendered and cured pork, and a gloriously rich spaghetti cacio e pepe in a lacy fried Parmesan basket. Maggiore also recommends his marinated and grilled baby lamb, though TWIR’s co-owner, Flora Tersigni, swears by the meatballs. (“They’re better than my grandmother’s,” she attests. No small compliment from a fellow Italian.) The chef promises everything pairs with Luxus wines from his family’s Sicilian vineyard, yet dozens of Italian and American vintages are offered. Demure dessert offerings include spumoni bomba and his signature Angel Kisses (strawberries filled with sweetened mascarpone). All of the aforementioned can be enjoyed for lunch or dinner inside the elegant 5,000-square-foot indoor-outdoor environment honoring the ancient city and, starting in October, brunch can also be had on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30am to 3pm. Soon fans can also expect to hear about regional wine dinners and cooking classes. Until then, mangia bene! The Pinnacle of Scottsdale, 23655 N. Scottsdale Road, Ste. 120, 480.404.6085